South African Teacher Training Safari – Part 2
Back to Articles
I hope that you enjoyed my first article about my glorious first 2 weeks full of unforgettable and sensational adventures South Africa and are ready for more stories. I headed out from Durban on another short flight to East London, then departed on a rather adventurous ride to Cintsa, a rugged community on the Wild Coast (previously known as the Transkei) with Bernie, the semi retired taxi driver turned hot-off-the-press reporter of the very local newsletter. After one hour of the most charming and delightful account of local information and folklore, I arrived at my wonderful, rustic cabin in the middle of nowhere, somewhere on the wild coast, about 10 minutes from Nelson Mandela’s birthplace. This little piece of paradise was a complete and unexpected surprise, where time stopped and I had a chance to catch up to myself.
I quickly settled into my little beach house with a million dollar view over the lagoon and 20 miles of absolute virgin beach. Peace, tranquility, timeless beauty…
The first day was devoted to the beach, swimming in the chilly waters of the Indian Ocean, sea food dinner in the village, and moonlight on my porch before a very early morning and my date with Mwotoosi at the elephant sanctuary. Mwotoosi was my 17 year old big boy elephant who was kind enough to kneel down, extend his forefoot and swoop me up onto the saddle for my very first elephant ride. Although the Indian elephant has been tamed and ridden by men for centuries, the African elephant has only just begun to be trained to accept riders. Mwotoosi and his three companions had only been working for two years with the trainer, a specialist who was contracted from Zimbabwe. He was more or less a well behaved, obliging fellow who not only gave a rocking and rolling ride through the bush, but was also a great entertainer who took pride in “showing me his ears” and screaming upon request. He and his companions were all a bit naughty, as they completely ignored their trainers and decided to have a water spray game at a marshy waterhole on the side of the path. I was the unfortunate recipient of a marshy shower. The extreme rock and roll of Mowtoosi’s gait, the buzzing of the insects, the sun-dryness of the toasted grass and bush trees….and as always, the silence….all wrapped in that intangible ancient energy that is Mother Africa. It was a morning that I will remember forever.
The afternoon was a 4 hour walk along and back on the endless beach, during which time I did not encounter or even see one other soul! I can think of few other places on the planet that caters to catching up to oneself. After a sunset candlelit dinner (to accommodate the necessary daily power cuts) with a view forever, the evening ended with a massage and total silence. There were too many stars to count as I basked in their gentle light on my porch!
After three days of this total retreat and regeneration, I had my return trip with my friend Bernie and caught up on all the local events that had transpired since our last visit. I was even awarded a complimentary copy of her newspaper after I promised to give her an exclusive interview on my next visit, which should be easy to arrange as this is our planned destination for teacher training level 3.
Two hours later, I arrived in Johannesburg, which is definitely NOT the center of South African tourism. I was well aware of this fact while planning my bookings for the tour, but I decided to offer Teacher Training Level 1 and 2 there because it has the largest dance community in the country. However, as usual, bigger was not better and I had fewer students there than Cape Town, which was sold out, or even Durban. This is especially interesting in light of the fact that Jo’burg has a teacher on every corner. Focused, enthusiastic and sincere, even if, a bit overwhelmed with the technique and information and struggling at times and would be a good way to describe the students. Large, congested, hectic, bars on every window, gate and door; would be a good way to describe the city of imbalance where fear rules.
Although there were not too many tourism options, the apartheid Museum was powerful, profound and disturbing. It clarified so much, not only about the history of the country, but also the reason for the imbalance and current problems. However, outside of Johannesburg, the Transvaal Mountains were spectacular! This is in fact, the cradle of mankind. I also had a wonderful time at the lion park where we could pet and play with the adorable baby lions that had been abandoned by their mothers and raised by these dedicated caring people.
Finally it was off to Cape Town, the jewel of South Africa for Level 1 and 2 Teacher Training and dance workshops. Although I had seen countless photos and travel documentaries over the years, it was even more gorgeous than I expected. Breathtaking views, oceans, mountains, including the world famous Table Mountain, which was one of our very first destinations on a beyond perfect day. Our cable car ride took us up the completely vertical cliffs to the top of the almost-bottom of the world for a view that goes on almost forever – Cape Town and surrounding communities, False Bay, Robin Island (Mandela’s prison) rock, rock and more rock covered with the unique Fynbos vegetation. Apparently, Fynbos is a complete flora system found only in the southwest Cape and one of only five of such systems which exist in the entire planet. I learned all about the Fynbos during my visit to the famous Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, which is one of the most spectacular of any botanical Gardens in the planet.
On a slightly more serious note we organized a private tour of the townships which included District 6. This entire neighbourhood was inhabited by black and coloured citizens who were taken from their homes and forced into the hovels in the “townships” (a perfectly quaint and charming term to describe the horrid, slums that go on for miles and miles and miles) during the apartheid era. It was then completely destroyed, flattened and never rebuilt. Today is stands as an eerie, ghost neighbourhood memorial to this dark era of South African history. We continued our tour to an area called Mitchell’s Plain – a horrible flat, baking hot area to the east of the city – home to our eloquent, highly educated and personable guide. It is difficult to imagine the sorry state wherein these people are forced to live. Horrendous over crowding, no plumbing, no infrastructure, abject poverty, one toilet for 8 houses with an average of 12 people per house, not a tree in sight, one exit for the thousands of people living in each compound. Kyalitcha township to the West of the city went on for mile after desolate godforsaken mile of shacks, corrugated iron and cardboard.
Another unforgettable outing was down to Cape Point. Although Argulhos Point is the true most southern point of Africa, Cape Point is the meeting point of the Indian and Atlantic oceans. It was a place of raw power, with the winds almost strong enough to blown everyone off the mountain top. However, we were laughing so hard trying to keep our bad clothes choices under control in the raging wind that we were more at risk of falling off the mountain top than being blown away. I had worn a bell shaped beach dress which had to be literally tied in knots around my hips and held down with both hands, while my friend’s flaring miniskirt put Marilyn Munroe’s flaring white dress to shame! Looking out past the point wrestling currents of these two oceans at the bottom of the cliff, I saw the Devil’s Cauldron, a submerged mountain peak that looked exactly like a bubbling steaming witch’s kettle.
One of my absolutely favourite places in the cape region was Boulders Beach – a beautiful pristine beach which is protected from the endless Cape winds by giant monolithic boulders and epicenter of the South African Jackass Penguin Kingdom. Although I had seen the penguins in Australia, Boulders Beach was a first for me – actually hanging out, swimming with, following and being followed by these thousands of delightful little guys in tuxedos. A close runner up for baby lions and elephant riding!
Cape Town Waterfront is a stunning place of 19th century, Cape Dutch architecture, boasting an abundant supply of restaurants, specialty boutiques and nightlife. We had a little dance along with a Marimba band, which had the prime busking spot in front of the clock tower and right around the corner I had a little sing along with a lovely group of kwaito singers (South Africa’s national singling style which inevitable leaves a smile on the face of any listener). We had a great evening out, invited by my hostess’s jazz saxophonist brother to his salsa gig at one of clubs. Being a dynamite Salsera myself, I was thinking salsa band…Cape Town, South Africa, hmmmm… I will be polite and go. I was totally unprepared for and even more delighted by the caliber of music. He was a brilliant musician and more than half of the 10 piece were directly from Cuba. WOW! I danced my feet off all night. Cape Town is a very creative and cosmopolitan city, full of artists, unique and dynamic neighbourhoods with a delightful laid back style. We also went to a great flamenco show by Cape Town’s top flamenco school, set in a beautiful outdoor theater in one of the wineries. I was very impressed with the caliber of dance and professionalism, especially with the fact that the directress flew in a singer from Spain. An extra bonus was the complimentary wine during intermission.
So now onto the Wine Country! Our first stop was Stellenbosch Estate and its cheetah sanctuary. I had the unparalleled pleasure of petting a gorgeous, huge, loudly purring male cheetah named Enigma. These beautiful animals are all born in captivity and act as ambassadors for schools, community education program for protection of these highly specialized and magnificent creatures.
Next, the Franschoek Valley was a symphony of beautiful scenery, mountains, valleys and, of course, absolutely delicious wine, some of the best that I have ever tasted. Although we devoted an entire day to our tour, we did not begin to see a fraction of this area that, in my humble opinion produces some of the loveliest wine in the world. We ended our giggling and VERY tasty day with Cape Town’s Moyo Restaurant experience (see my first article for ore details). This region is definitely on my itinerary for return visits.
And a return visit is the works for 2009, with Teacher Training and Dace workshops as well as a Safari or two or three in my favourite places from this tour, as well as new and unexplored areas of this magnificent country. If you would like to join us for a tour of a lifetime, contact me directly at hadia@hadia.com and be sure to check into my website www.hadia.com from time to time, for updates for details about this adventure (and others) as they evolve.